A Snapshot of My Community

My favorite part of service has been the relationships I have formed with Georgians. Everywhere I go in my community, I have someone waiting to have a chat or invite me in for coffee. They are very open to sharing their life and culture. In an effort to share this part of my service, I have completed a project documenting my community. Each person is holding something representing their culture. 

1. Tea – from Shida Kartli – Tea is standing in front of the family’s petchi (wood-burning stove) holding a painting of Georgian nature painted by her father. Nature is a large part of Georgia’s identity. The small country boasts some of the most beautiful hiking trails in the world.

2. Giorgi – from Shida Kartli – Giorgi stands in his cellar, where all the family’s wine and chacha (a strong grape brandy) are produced, by him, every year after the grape harvest. Although there are modern tools available, he prefers to use the tools his family has been using forever. He stomps the grapes himself rather than press them, then ferments them in large kvevri (large clay pots) buried into the foundation of the cellar. He is surrounded by liters of wine that were fermented last year and the ceremonial cups from which the wine is drunk at celebrations. 

3. Mania – from Shida Kartli – Mania holds her 1^st edition copy of Deda Ena, meaning mother tongue. This book, used to teach the Georgian language, represents her many years as a teacher and caregiver to the children in her village. Retired now, her daughter has taken up the profession and teaches Georgian at the village school. Her region, and the country, have a rich history of textile production as can be seen by the handwoven Georgian carpet that hangs in her bedroom.

4. Mariam – from Shida Kartli – Mariam stands in front of the family bookshelf holding a book by Perosmani, a famous self-educated painter from Kakheti. Georgian people are expressive, artistic people who have a history of documenting the world around them by creating art. Art history is a serious matter here, with almost every Georgian knowing about famous artists and their work.

5. Anano – from Shida Kartli – Anano stands in front of the religious center of her home. Like many other Georgians, her family is Georgian Orthodox Christian. This table, holding all of their icons, religious objects, and holy water, is where family members go to light candles and pray to God and the saints. She is holding an icon of Saint Nino, the woman who brought Christianity to Georgia.

6. Liana – from Imereti – Liana, the village librarian, sits at her desk surrounded by the works of Georgian authors. Writings and poetry are a cornerstone of Georgian culture, with a long history of work documenting Georgian history, the daily life of earlier centuries and the glory of a bygone empire. If you go into most schools in Georgia, you are likely to find a student or teacher who can recite you at least one beautiful poem written by a Georgian artist.

7. Inga – from Imereti – Inga, a nurse, is the village caregiver. Her village is somewhat remote, located at the top of a mountain, and her being in the village prevents residents from having to make the long trip to the nearest city or call an ambulance for minor medical problems. This is just one example of the self-sufficient attitude village residents have. The whole village is connected and always looking in on their neighbors.

8. Eteri – from Imereti – Eteri sits on the couch in the family room looking through a family photo album. Family is the center of life in Georgia, with people often spending the majority of their free time with family members. During a supra or feast, both living and deceased relatives never forgotten when making toasts. This attitude is evident in the language as well, with a close friend often referred to as dzma katsi/da kali (brother man/sister woman).

9. Giuli – from Imereti – Giuli sits in the guest room showing me a book about the landmarks and monuments of Georgia, many of which are beautiful architecture or large scale statues. She invited me over for a coffee to discuss Georgian culture, which quickly turned into a meal featuring several main dishes, wine, dessert and finally, coffee. Hospitality is a fundamental part of Georgian culture. They are always warm and welcoming, offering food coffee and sweats immediately, and insisting you stay for at least one cup.

10. Lia – from Imereti – Lia stands in her maghazia (similar to a convenience store). She is one of only two shops in the village and sells basic necessities along with sweets, treats, and snacks. Most importantly she sells sunflower seeds, the unquestioned king of snacks.  

11. Maleuza – from Imereti – Maleuza sits smashing garlic in her sanak’i, a wooden mortar and pestle that is carved to sit either between the user's knees or on a table. This sanak’i is over 70 years old and was given to her by her husband's family when they were married. This tool is used to make many of Georgia’s traditional dishes that have sauces made from ground garlic or walnuts. Being a caregiver and homemaker, this tool represents the many years happily married, caring for her family, and feeding her children. 

12. Iviko – from Tbilisi – Iviko stands in his grandmother's vineyard surrounded by barren vines and snow. These grapevines are the center of the garden, tended carefully by his grandmother every year. They were planted long ago by her and her deceased husband Iona, whom Iviko was named after. Every year he and his father return during the harvest to stomp the grapes and turn the juice into wine. This tradition is generations old and often a time of celebration and feasting. 

13. Marina – from Imereti – Marina stands next to her table at the local bazaar pricing out herbs. Most people in Georgia get their fresh fruits, vegetable, dairy and meat from stands just like this one in bazaars all around the country, and most people have a regular seller they always visit.  There are many women like Marina at the same bazaar, selling the same product at the same price, but Marina has the best green onions and always stops me to have a friendly chat.

14. Lily – from Imereti – Lily is sitting in her living room. On the table is an impromptu supra put out for her guest. Laid out with the fruit, cookies, and churchkela (a traditional Georgian candy) sits a bottle of Lily’s homemade cognac. It's syrup thick and sweet with cherry juice but deceptively strong. Although she doesn’t drink, Lily always has a glass ready should someone drop by. Georgians pride themselves on their hospitality, and every family in the village has some version of this waiting in case a neighbor or friend stops by. 

15. Ketina – from Imereti – Ketina is standing in the teacher's room holding a panduri, preparing for a music lesson. The Panduri is a Georgian instrument similar to a lute. It has a deep hollow base, a skinny stem, and 3 strings. It is common for students to learn the traditional folk songs of Georgia during school and put on concerts. The panduri features heavily in Georgian folk music. It has a beautiful light sound and is strummed in a pattern of five – down, down, up, down, up – using the thumb on the ups and all four fingers on the down.

16. Nana – from Imereti – Nana leans over her family’s toni, a round kiln oven, preparing it for a fresh batch of bread. The base of the toni is filled with coals, then round diamonds of dough are stuck to the concrete walls using a padded cushion or hand. This is a bread baking practice common all over the country, with different regions making unique shapes of tonis puri – toni bread. 

17. Maia – from Imereti – Maia stands in front of the board, giving a Russian grammar lesson to a class of 6^th graders. She is Georgian, but like many people here, speaks fluent Russian. Georgia has a complicated relationship with Russia. After the dissolution of the USSR, Georgia transitioned back to an independent democratic government but tourism from Russia makes up a substantial part of the economy and many people live in Russia to work. Because of this, many people still speak Russian as a second or third language and it is still taught in schools. 

18. Nino – from Imereti – Nino stands in front of her fruit stand in the bazaar. She is a perfect example of the aggressive hospitality and generosity that can be found in Georgia, and Imereti especially. Nino is my fruit lady and the first friend I made in the city. Every week I stop by and purchase a bag of fruit. She asks about my service and school, and despite protests, she gives me a discount every time. In the winter months, she always sneaks a lemon in the bag knowing my love for lemon tea.

19.  Soso and his son – from Imereti – Small business is definitely in the blood of Georgians, and this family is no different. Soso runs this small larad (1 lari shop) near the bus stop. It’s common when stopping by to purchase a drink or snack, to see his wife knitting away behind the counter while he jovially chats with customers or the other shop owners around. Whenever I come in, he has a big smile and some friendly chatter for me. His daughter goes to a school that hosted a previous volunteer and he always asks me to speak to her in English. The family is so pleasant I often stop by to buy a small drink, even when I’m not thirsty. 

20. Mzeo – from Imereti – Mzeo stands in a classroom holding a grade book. She is an English teacher at my school and incredibly dedicated to her job. Mzeo loves public education. She works every day to help her students and community. She is a lead teacher, the highest certification a regular teacher can reach. Despite working at school, teaching lessons and helping to maintain her family’s small farm, she maintaining an overwhelmingly positive attitude and a pep in her step while writing lessons and leading classes.