Culture Post: Supras!
One of the most important elements of Georgian culture is
hospitality. Often they can be so hospitable, you will find yourself presented
with more food, sweets, coffee, wine and limonati (soda flavored with fruits)
than you could ever hope to consume. Georgians live for community and
connecting with their neighbors and family.
One way this is done is through Supras. A supra is a large
feast, often held in someone’s home, that celebrates an event. The meal can
often last hours, with a quantity of many traditional dishes, lots of bread and
of course, toasts. Often cold dishes of mayo based salads, vegetables, bread
and khachapuri (bread baked with cheese) are laid out first to eat while the
hostess brings out dish after dish of hot stewed meats, fish, and refills on
anything running low.
At the head of the table sits the “Tamada” or
toast master. This person, usually a man, is chosen for his rhetorical skill
and eloquent speech, as well as his ability to consume a lot of alcohol without
appearing drunk. He proposes many toasts, in the appropriate order, and is
always the first to drink. While toasting, conversation usually stops.
The first toast is given to peace
The second toast is to honor the reason for the gathering
(i.e. a specific person, a holiday, etc.)
After this the toasts are opened up to what the toast master
wishes. Usually there will be a toast to parents and children, and if any
foreign guests are present, a toast will be made early on to them. When I am
present at a surpra there is always a toast to friendship between Sakartvelo
and America (გაუმარჯოს მეგობრობა ამერიკიდან და საქართველო). There are also personal toasts that
follow specific to the occasion and later in the evening a toast to Sakartvelo
will be made. Some personal toasts generally made are to love, groups of
people, a family, the host, ancestors and people who have died, or friendship
between families and countries. As the supra wraps up, a senior member of the
party will ask the Tamada for permission to toast. This toast is given to the
Tamada as thanks for leading the supra well and honoring him.
When a toast is
made, men are expected to empty their glasses, however women are not. While
this rule is generally followed, I have many experiences where a very important
toast was presented and I was expected to bolomde (ბოლომდე) or chug a glass of wine like a shot.
Bolomde means “to the bottom”.
During the supra,
alcohol is not consumed outside of a toast and you never drink while the toast
master is talking. You must wait for him to finish and drink, then cheers (გაუმარჯოს), then drink. After the Tamada talks,
often another person will stand up and elaborate on this theme, adding to the
toast or personalizing it.
The supra
tradition is rich and runs deep in the blood of Kartuli people. I hope you
enjoyed this brief description based on my personal experiences. Every supra is
a little different, but follow the general guidelines of hospitality, lots of
food, many toasts, and a night of smiles and laughter. The supra table is a
special place of peace between people of conflict and a place to share feelings
of warmth and love.
Sounds like fun! Glad for lots of food and protocol for friendship! :)
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